The Clean Mile

I usually quote around 6 hours as a safe estimate, and I make sure to leave your carpet as dry as possible when I finish the job.
That said, drying time depends on several factors: ventilation, humidity, carpet type, and pile depth. I use fans while I’m there to speed things up, but the real work happens after I’ve left — you’ll need to keep your windows open for the rest of the day to allow proper air circulation.
The worst-case scenario is on hot, humid days (which we get plenty of in coastal Cornwall). High humidity means moisture has nowhere to go, so ventilation becomes absolutely critical. Wool carpets also hold moisture longer than synthetics because of their fibre structure, and thick or deep-pile carpets take longer to dry than short, commercial-style pile because the moisture sits deeper in the fibres.
One important thing: don’t turn on your heating. It encourages moisture to evaporate and rise into the air, which actually increases condensation risk — especially in condensation-prone homes. Keep windows open instead, and the carpet will dry naturally and safely.

I’m happy to move smaller items of furniture during the clean. However, I’d recommend that larger items such as beds and sofas remain in place, as the carpet underneath these areas typically doesn’t require cleaning.
If you’d like me to clean underneath larger furniture, please arrange to move or remove those items prior to my arrival. For safety and liability reasons, I’m unable to move beds due to their weight, or any electrical items such as televisions. If you require cleaning in these areas, please relocate them beforehand.

Nope, you don’t need to be home. I’m happy to have a key left out and I can get on with the job. I’ve had plenty of customers do this with no issues.

Always. I pre-vacuum every carpet before I start the wet clean.

Yes, I can clean wool carpets safely, but they do require a different approach than synthetic carpets.
Wool is a natural fibre that responds best to pH-neutral cleaning products. While stronger products can be used if needed, these are always rinsed out using an acid rinse to help restore the carpet’s pH to a neutral level — this keeps the wool strong and soft.
During cleaning, I use much gentler agitation, especially on loop pile carpets. Loop pile can easily be “pulled,” which causes runs in the carpet. Over-agitation will also cause the carpet to shed its fibres, so careful handling is essential.
I always rinse wool carpets with cool water to limit the risk of shrinkage and damage.
That said, there are limitations with wool, and I always discuss these with customers beforehand. Stains are much harder to remove from wool than from synthetics. While I can reduce the appearance of stains, complete removal is never certain — and long-standing stains are rarely removed entirely.

There’s no guarantee, but I’ll always give it my best shot.
Whether an old stain can be removed depends on several factors: the type of stain (tannin stains are particularly difficult), your carpet type, and how long the stain has been there. Ideally, stains should be tackled as soon as possible — the longer they’ve been set, the harder they are to shift.
What many people don’t realise is that DIY cleaning products can actually make things worse. Some off-the-shelf treatments can set stains deeper into the fibres, making professional removal even harder.
At the start of every job, I walk through your carpet with you and highlight any problem areas. I always let customers know upfront that while I’ll give my absolute best effort on stained areas, complete removal can’t be guaranteed — especially on long-standing stains.

This depends on your household. If you have pets or children, I’d recommend cleaning at least once a year — potentially more if you have both. If you don’t have pets or children, don’t wear shoes indoors, and have light foot traffic, you can stretch it to every 18-24 months.
The reason is twofold: dirt left in the carpet fibres causes friction and accelerates wear, which shortens your carpet’s lifespan. Regular cleaning is about protecting your investment — a £3,000 carpet that’s cleaned annually will last considerably longer than one that goes years between cleans.
High-traffic areas like hallways and living rooms will naturally attract more soiling, so you might clean these more frequently than bedrooms or lesser-used rooms. For example, you could clean high-traffic areas annually while stretching to every two years for low-traffic spaces.

Every job comes with a satisfaction guarantee. If you’re not happy with the result, just let me know within 48 hours and I’ll come back and re-clean it for free — no dramas at all.
The 48-hour window gives your carpet time to fully dry, so any issues are clearly visible. It also gives me a fair window to address any concerns before they settle in.
In nearly four years of business, I’ve only ever had fewer than five callbacks — and one of those was actually due to a customer using a DIY product on the carpet after the clean, which left a mark. That’s how confident I am in my work.
I also always follow up with customers after the job to check you’re happy with the results. Customer satisfaction is what I’m about, so if there’s anything you’re not pleased with, I want to know straight away.

I cover areas within a 30-minute radius of Redruth as standard. This includes Camborne, Truro, Falmouth, and Penzance.
For larger jobs like full-house cleans, I’m happy to travel up to 45 minutes. However, for single-room cleans, I stick to the 30-minute radius to keep travel time reasonable.
If you’re unsure whether your location falls within my service area, just get in touch and I’ll let you know.

Absolutely. I work with offices, workspaces, showrooms, estate agents, car dealerships, gyms, restaurants, pubs — if you need your commercial space cleaned, I can do it.
I offer both one-off cleans and ongoing contract work, whichever suits your business best. Commercial pricing is based on square metres, typically £3-£4 per sqm, with a minimum charge of £120.
I’m happy to work out-of-hours if your business needs the clean done before or after trading hours — commercial clients get priority bookings, so we can usually arrange a time that works around your schedule.
There’s no minimum size — just the minimum charge. Whether you need a small office or a large showroom cleaned, I can help.
What sets me apart is that you’re dealing with a local, one-man operation with a solid local reputation built over nearly four years. You get consistency, accountability, and someone who actually cares about the result — not a faceless cleaning company sending different teams each time.

Pet urine is tricky because it doesn’t always sit on the surface — it can migrate deep into the underlay or subfloor, which makes complete removal impossible in some cases. That’s why I’m always upfront about this during the quoting process.
Here’s the process: I start by inspecting the area with a UV torch to locate all affected spots. I rehydrate the urine, then extract it with the WaterClaw (a deep extraction tool). Next, I apply an enzyme treatment and let it dwell for 15-20 minutes — this neutralises the urine and crystallises anything left behind so it can be vacuumed away once the carpet is dry. I then do a second WaterClaw extraction to be safe, followed by an enzyme pre-spray, an encap acid rinse (which further neutralises and crystallises remaining residue), and a final extraction.
The whole process usually takes around an hour, depending on the size of the affected area and whether I’m treating the rest of the room as well. Drying time is the same 6-hour window as a standard clean.
At the end, I apply an odour treatment spray which is left to work after I’ve finished.
Realistically, I can achieve successful removal at least 8 times out of 10. However, if urine has penetrated deep into the underlay or subfloor, complete removal isn’t always possible — but the treatment will significantly reduce the odour.
There’s an additional charge for this service — get in touch for a quote.